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The Art of Flavour Sunday e-magazine

 

Why all the fuss about Citrus

Arthur Huxley - 18-04-2020

For Home Chefs there is no escape. Think of the stunning Greek style, lamb shoulder bake and you will find an essential. Citrus.

And Citrus continues. Look to your favourite Risotto or a Salad Dressing. Perhaps a prized sauce that you have developed in the privacy of your home kitchen. Or your favourite (very secret) BBQ marinade. Maybe a vegetable Capanata from Spain or Italy. Even a two hour Bolognaise stew from Italy and there it will be again. Citrus.

(Ok team, I know not everybody puts a squeeze of lemon in a Bolognaise but I think it really does add a touch of brightness to the dish).

Citrus Traps

But nothing difficult. It is after all just an acid, adding the brightness, balance and a flavour lift to your recipe and it comes to you as lemons, limes, grapefruit and oranges

Terrific. Easy. But within these simple classic fruits there are lessons, tricks and traps for Home Chefs.

Basic lesson one. You should always add the Citrus at the finish of the cooking or as many prefer, after the heat is turned off. It's the heat that is a problem. if you allow the Zest or Juice to burn you will have instant bitterness. Much like fresh garlic (refer recipes)

Balance

And It might seem obvious but much like any ingredient in the recipe, too much will destroy the balance (there it is again) you are working towards and few have the ability of Citrus to stuff things up quite the way Citrus manages.

For aspirational Home Chefs creating their own recipes (go you good things ! ) best to add the Citrus progressively, building to your intended flavour balance.

Marinades and Denaturation

Taking this wonder fruit further, the process of marinating meat - technically Denaturation if you like - allows the Citrus acid to break down the meat, fish or poultry, allowing your preferred Spices in the marinade to infuse the flavour. The trap is too much Citrus in the marinade will start to cook your meat giving nothing much more than a mush that no Spice can save !